MoJo Video: Bryant Terry's Vegan Soul Kitchen
A cook's-eye view on recession-friendly food, what the Black Panthers did right, and whether we really need more hip organic farmers.
UPDATE: Join us for an expert-led reader forum April 13-17 on MotherJones.com around the question: Is organic and local so 2008?
Both Alice Waters and Van Jones praise Bryant Terry's new cookbook, Vegan Soul Kitchen. And not just for the recipes. Terry, a food policy fellow for the Kellogg Foundation, has a history of whipping up recipes for change, not just food.
After founding a youth nonprofit and hosting the public television series The Endless Feast, Terry now travels across the country giving lectures on everything from the prevalence of diet-related diseases in the South to "food deserts" in Oakland. He joined Mother Jones on video to whip up his healthy version of a quintessential soul food recipe and talk about racism in the food system, faith-based food activism, and the Southern Organic Kitchen Project.
Mother Jones: Your new book is called Vegan Soul Kitchen. Why vegan? Is veganism going to save the world?
Bryant Terry: I don't necessarily think veganism is going to save the world; I'll start there. In fact, I don't advocate any particular diet for anyone. I think that's a very personal decision that people have to make. I will say this, however: There are more and more studies in terms of the health benefits of veganism; there are more and more studies that are showing that a properly executed vegan diet is highly beneficial for cleansing, for detoxing, in addition to lowering the risks for and even ameliorating chronic illness. We all have our own body constitutions and cultural food ways and personal tastes that determine what will work for us. All that being said, I think that if everyone did at least embrace a more plant-centered diet, it would improve public health. Given that it takes up to 16 pounds of grain to produce one pound of meat, I think we can also go a long way toward ending hunger and saving the environment as well.
I want [Vegan Soul Kitchen] to be a book for everyone. I wanted this book to be a book for people who identified themselves as vegetarian, people who identified themselves as vegan, and people who identified themselves as meat eaters. For me, the focus of this book is about the use of local, seasonal, and sustainable real food.
I also think that one of the most important parts of this project is moving away from this stereotype of what traditional African American food and cooking is and going back to what I know it as. Food historian Jessica B. Harris says African American cuisine is simply what black people ate. When I think about what my family ate, we ate what people think of as soul food on special occasions, on holidays, but our typical diet was leafy greens and nutrients and tubers—food that was as fresh as being harvested right before our meal. Whatever was in season, that's what we were eating. It was being harvested right from our backyard.
MJ: You grew up in the South, and you were able to eat locally there then?
BT: I was. I grew up in Memphis, Tennessee; I went to college in New Orleans before moving to New York City for graduate school. Both sets of my grandparents grew up in rural Mississippi and brought a lot of agrarian knowledge to Memphis, which is an urban center in the South. Both sets had amazing backyard gardens. My paternal grandfather, practically every inch of available space was green.
MJ: What's the best way to improve access to healthful foods in low-income communities?
BT: In California there are lots of great farmers markets, especially here in the Bay. But in West Oakland there are close to 35,000 residents and not one single grocery store. Yet there are over 50 liquor/convenience stores. I think that people deserve at least a supermarket in their community. But that's not the only solution. All communities, and low-income communities especially because of food insecurity and lack of access to healthy foods, need more farmers markets, need more community gardens and urban farms. It would be great if people living in communities had the tools and resources to grow food in their own backyard—community-based food systems.
MJ: Is the current US food system a medium for racism?
BT: I think that the agriculture system in general is rooted in racism—consider that historically black labor on plantations was the backbone of the economy. These workers didn't reap the benefit of that system. In terms of the contemporary food system we see a lot of racism currently. Obviously we have a large supply of food. A lot of people don't examine why that is the case, but there are a number of nonwhite migrant workers being exploited every day. In restaurants across America we see Latino workers in the kitchen who are being paid substandard wages. The saddest thing to me is that if we think about these workers, these are the people with the least access to good food. Yet they're often suffering from the highest rates of obesity and diet-related illnesses.
MJ: How can food activists best combat this?
BT: I think there needs to be a general consciousness raising among consumers. So many consumers aren't aware of the backstory. They see the end product in the supermarket but don't know all the steps that it took to get it there, who helped to get the food there.
MJ: What's the future of farming? Will young, hip organic farmers save the world, or is it something else that will keep people motivated?
"Is veganism going to save the world?" YES!
The following quotes, facts, figures, and statistics are excerpted from Please Don't Eat the Animals (2007) by Jennifer Horsman and Jaime Flowers:
"A reduction in beef and other meat consumption is the most potent single act you can take to halt the destruction of our environment and preserve our natural resources. Our choices do matter: What's healthiest for each of us personally is also healthiest for the life support system of our precious, but wounded planet."
---John Robbins, author, Diet for a New America, and President, EarthSave Foundation
One study puts animal waste in the United States to between 2.4 trillion to 3.9 trillion pounds per year. The United states produces 15,000 pounds of manure per person. This is 130 times the amount of waste produced by the entire human population of the United States.
A 1,000-cow dairy can produce approximately 120,000 pounds of waste per day. This is the functional equivalent of the amount of sanitary waste produced by a city of 20,000 people.
A 20,000-chicken factory produces about 2.4 million pounds of manure a year. Poultry factories are one of the fastest growing industries throughout Asia.
One pig excretes nearly three gallons of waste per day, or 2.5 times the average human's daily total. One hog farm with 50,000 pigs in France produces more waste than the entire city of Los Angeles, and some pig farms are much larger.
Factory farm pollution is the primary source of damage to coastal waters in North and South America, Europe, and Asia. Scientists report that over sixty percent of the coastal waters in the United States are moderately to severely degraded from factory farm nutrient pollution. This pollution creates oxygen-depleted dead zones, which are huge areas of ocean devoid of aquatic life.
Meat production causes deforestation, which then contributes to global warming. Trees convert carbon dioxide into oxygen, and the destruction of forests around the globe to make room for grazing cattle furthers the greenhouse effect. The Food and Agricultural Organization of the United Nations reports that the annual rate of tropical deforestation has increased from 9 million hectares in 1980 to 16.8 million hectares in 1990, and unfortunately, this destruction has accelerated since then. By 1994, a staggering 200 million hectares of rainforest had been destroyed in South America just for cattle.
"The impact of countless hooves and mouths over the years has done more to alter the type of vegetation and land forms of the West than all the water projects, strip mines, power plants, freeways, and sub-division developments combined."
---Philip Fradkin, in Audubon, National Audubon Society, New York
Agricultural meat production generates air pollution. As manure decomposes, it releases over 400 volatile organic compounds, many of which are extremely harmful to human health. Nitrogen, a major by-product of animal wastes, changes to ammonia as it escapes into the air, and this is a major source of acid rain. Worldwide, livestock produce over 30 million tons of ammonia. Hydrogen sulfide, another chemical released from animal waste, can cause irreversible neurological damage, even at low levels.
The World Conservation Union lists over 1,000 different fish species that are threatened or endangered. According to the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) estimate, over 60 percent of the world's fish species are either fully exploited or depleted. Commercial fish populations of cod, hake, haddock, and flounder have fallen by as much as 95 percent in the north Atlantic.
The United States and Europe lose several billion tons of topsoil each year from cropland and grazing land, and 84 percent of this erosion is caused by livestock agriculture. While this soil is theoretically a renewable resource, we are losing soil at a much faster rate than we are able to replace it. It takes 100 to 500 years to produce one inch of topsoil, but due to livestock grazing and feeding, farming areas can lose up to six inches of topsoil a year.
Livestock production affects a startling 70 to 85 percent of the land area of the United States, United Kingdom, and the European Union. That includes the public and private rangeland used for grazing, as well as the land used to produce the crops that feed the animals. By comparison, urbanization only affects 3 percent of the United States land area, slightly larger for the European Union and the United Kingdom. Meat production consumes the world's land resources.
Half of all fresh water worldwide is used for thirsty livestock. Producing eight ounces of beef requires an unimaginable 25,000 liters of water, or the water necessary for one pound of steak equals the water consumption of the average household for a year.
The United States government spends $10 million each year to kill an estimated 100,000 wild animals, including coyotes, foxes, bobcats, badgers, bears, and mountain lions just to placate ranchers who don't want these animals killing their livestock. The cost far outweighs the damage to livestock that these predators cause.
The Worldwatch Institute estimates one pound of steak from a steer raised in a feedlot costs: five pounds of grain, a whopping 2,500 gallons of water, the energy equivalent of a gallon of gasoline, and about 34 pounds of topsoil.
33 percent of our nation's raw materials and fossil fuels go into livestock destined for slaughter. In a vegan economy, only 2 percent of our resources will go to the production of food.
"It seems disingenuous for the intellectual elite of the first world to dwell on the subject of too many babies being born in the second- and third-world nations while virtually ignoring the overpopulation of cattle and the realities of a food chain that robs the poor of sustenance to feed the rich a steady diet of grain-fed meat."
---Jeremy Rifkin, author, Beyond Beef: The Rise and Fall of the Cattle Culture, and president of the Greenhouse Crisis Foundation
Lester Brown of the Overseas Development Council calculates that if Americans reduced their meat consumption by only 10 percent per year, it would free at least 12 million tons of grain for human consumption--or enough to feed 60 million people.
For every one of these hippy
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For every one of these hippy extremist food products that you buy, there is a worker at a great American company like Tyson Foods that will go unemployed. It is time for Americans to stand up and stop this organic lie and demand cheaper food supplies like we had until Obama became president. Real Americans know the difference between one of these tasteless organic tomatoes and a real farm produced tomato.
organic tomatoes
The tastiest tomato is the one you grow in your own back yard and if you grow organic it's even healthier. While I have sympathy for any workers losing their jobs Tyson is just the kind of business that should be shut down. Cheap meat is an animal welfare issue as well as an environmental issue and does no-one any favors. And as for Deane's Obama bashing. That's just silly. The problems our country is facing were created by years of excess and greed. At least we have an intelligent man in the White House who is trying to help us adapt to the current circumstances.
hippy extremist food products?
Abbey Hoffman's potato chips are good, but the Symbionese Liberation Army Sandwich Spread is just to die for!
Seriously though, it's a shame that good people have to suffer, but Tyson's needed to be belly up for a while now. Even if you are unmoved by the clearly documented animal health and hygiene issues, Tyson has had problems with its treatment of line butchers and packers (which is endemic to factory farming all the way back to the days of Upton Sinclair, but Tyson is a particularly egregious violator).
You are half-right when you refer to the organic "lie", but the issue is not whether organic is a good thing, it's whether the food you buy labeled "organic" fits the definition of when you think of as organic (it's usually not).
Obama had a great chance when filling the SecAg position, but I'm not exactly expecting sweeping changes from Tom Vilsack. Michael Pollan's name was floated in the blogosphere for a while, but I think that was just a progressive wet dream.
Last point - Sadly, I don't think many "Real Americans" do know the difference between a real tomato and one bought at the grocery store. Americans are distanced from the source of their food as much as possible, both spatially and psychologically. Unfortunately, I think this is one of my conspiracy theories that rings true. AgriBusiness has gotten its tendrils so deeply into the American food system that most people don't even know that it exists. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain.
Re: the extremist hippie
Re: the extremist hippie products that will hurt a "great American company" like Tyson (ha!)... Tyson isn't so great. Tyson has plans to move into Brazil (and other countries) where they can take advantage of the generous corporate welfare tax breaks while buying soy (produced on land that was once rainforest) to stuff their fowl with feed until they are so big and fat and ready to have their throats slashed. Tyson employees, who suffer from repetitive strain injuries and whose health and saftey is seriously negelected by their wonderful employer, will lose jobs as Tyson grows, chasing the ever-enlarging capitalist dream, never satiated.
When you try to defend a corporate giant like Tyson in order to put down progressive lifestyles, you shoud consider doing a little research first.
Also, if you are saying that "Real Americans" know the difference between organic produce and conventional, pesticide-laden GE produce, I don't believe this is true. Most Americans don't spend the extra money on organic tomatoes, so they don't know the difference. Perhaps in your experience you got a bad one and took that one tomato and applied it to all organic tomatoes. If this is true, then you haven't gotten the chance to know the difference. And you must be one of these so-called "Real Americans". How unfortunate.
My love for you. Sleep
My love for you.
Sleep little
darling, and
always remember
the breath of
the sun and the
word of your
Princess....
Francesco Sinibaldi
Candlelight
Cauliflower Lime
1 Head Cauliflower (any color)
1 Red Pepper – ½ inch squares
1.5 Cups sliced White or Baby Portobello Mushrooms.
2 Med Carrots pealed & thin sliced.
1 White or Vidalia Onion thin sliced.
1 Sm. Clove Garlic diced.
2 Sm. washed and ½ pealed Yellow or Green Zucchini – reg. slices.
2 Stalks washed and chopped Celery
1 Tablespoon Cooking Oil.
1 Tablespoon Vegan Margarine
½ Small Bag Frozen Peas
1 Lemon or Lime
1-2 Tablespoon(s) Curry Paste (of your choice).
1-2 Teaspoons Concentrated Tamarind (Tree Fruit) Paste (amount according to concentration).
1-2 Tablespoons Patak’s Original Hot Lime Relish or Pickle
½-1 Cup Bamboo Shoot Slices.
½-1 Fresh Mango diced small or teaspoon of sweetener (optional).
½ Cup Water or 1 Cup Non-Animal Stock.
Pot of Jasmine or Saffron Basmati Rice
Cook liquid 1 Min. Add Mushrooms, wait for steam and cook 1 min., Add Carrots, cook 1 min., Add Cauliflower, Zucchini Garlic and Onions, cook 2-3 min. Add Margarine and Lemon/Lime juice. Add Condiments to Liquid and stir, cook 1-min. Add Remaining Ingredients, cook until red peppers and carrots are semi-soft. Serve over rice.
6-8 servings.
Non organic Tomatoes may be from organic seeds or, they my not. The genetically modified seeds are potentially very dangerous.
Respectfully submitted~
wow deane, you are beyond
wow deane, you are beyond ignorant. if we eat the right foods (vegan food), more of them will be produced, ORGANICALLY, and thus maintaining jobs, and also saving lives of animals that we are not meant to eat anyways (we're not cavemen anymore, evolution took care of that, we are herbivores now) . If you read enough research about peoples jobs in meat factories and dairy factories, they have literally become dehumanized because of the disgusting work they are doing. Having healthier jobs growing organic plants, or anything else would make them happier and SANE again!
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