Such divisions within the industry may not be as contradictory as they appear. Much of the fashion industry's legislative agenda -- an expansion of free trade, bankruptcy reform, a ban on Internet taxation, to name a few -- enjoys political support on both sides of the aisle. Last year, the fashion lobby helped cobble together bipartisan support for several new policies, including improved trade relations with China and an end to apparel duties in sub-Saharan Africa and the Caribbean Basin.

During the Reagan administration, Lauder served on the White House Advisory Committee on Trade Policy and Negotiations, and his recent campaign contributions show a continuing interest in trade issues. In 1999, he and his wife Evelyn broke Democratic ranks to give $2,000 to Republican William Roth Jr. of Delware, who chairs the Senate Finance Committee. Roth happened to be a primary backer of free-trade bills for China, Africa, and the Caribbean, but he lost his re-election campaign despite an early 2-to-1 fundraising lead over his Democratic challenger.

Last year, Estee Lauder sold $4.4 billion worth of skin care, makeup, hair care, and fragrances in 120 countries. A recent public filing notes that the company is "exposed to risks associated with changes in the laws and policies that govern foreign investment in countries where we have operations as well as, to a lesser extent, changes in United States laws and regulations relating to foreign trade and investment."

In 1992, Evelyn Lauder, who is a senior vice president at the company, founded the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. Leonard Lauder chairs the board of the Whitney Museum of American Art. His brother, Ronald, served as deputy assistant secretary of defense for European and NATO affairs under Reagan. Ronald Lauder now helps run Estee Lauder, while remaining a leader in several philanthropic Jewish organizations.