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Since we started sending ships around the world with giant trawls, miles of longlines, nets, and floating factories, we have lost our sense of responsibility for the fish that were once our neighbors. The nicest thing you can do for the fish you're eating is to make sure you know who its relatives are and where it lived before it ended up on your fork or in a bun with cheese and tartar sauce. Becoming a responsible consumer takes work, but here are some basics: