I would be happy enough if all desserts were simply dark chocolate ice cream or gelato, consumed rapidly and perhaps at a different venue altogether.
Well, that would certainly put a crimp in the dessert business, wouldn’t it? It would actually work out OK for me, but I have a feeling the rest of the world might get bored pretty quickly by an endless series of meals that finish off with dark chocolate gelato.
Anyway, it turns out that restaurant owners are on Cowen’s side. Desserts don’t bring in much money, but they do cause diners to linger around their tables. “You have to turn the tables,” says one restaurant owner, and desserts just get in the way of that. Very sad.